Seward is the easiest place to find fish and see glaciers. The year-round population is about 2,000, but it can swell to about 30,000 around the popular Fourth of July weekend festivities. The town was named after William Seward, secretary of state under President Andrew Johnson, who engineered the purchase of Alaska from Russia in 1867. His critics around the country were appalled. The United States had spent $7.2 million, they cried, for icebergs, and polar bears. Cartoonists showed Seward amid glaciers and walruses. They claimed the new territory should more aptly be called “Walrussia” or “Seward’s Folly.” Asked at the end of his long and distinguished career about his single greatest achievement, Seward responded, “The purchase of Alaska! But it will take Congress and the American people a generation to find it out.” That original purchase price has been paid back thousands of times over in fur, gold, fish, timber, and oil. Ironically, now tourists come (and pay) to see icebergs, walruses, polar bears, and glaciers.
While you’ll see plenty of ice in Seward, you won’t see walruses or polar bears this far south, unless you come for a strange event the third week of January, known as the Seward Polar Bear Jump-off Festival. When everyone else is wearing parkas and wool hats, strange characters in costumes and capes – all for charity and the theater of the absurd – plunge into the frigid waters of Resurrection Bay and come flying back out. It’s their entry fee to an elite and wacky club, the Polar Bear Club.
Resurrection Bay is the best of Seward, an inviting front yard, attracting boaters, birders, kayakers, fishermen, sailors, and whale watchers. Full of glaciers and incredible wildlife, all the western coast of the bay is in Kenai Fjords National Park. Seward is the beginning of the railroad to Fairbanks and Mile 0 on the old historic Seward to Nome gold rush/mail route, today more familiarly known as the Iditarod Trail.